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Thursday, 6 March 2014

2nd August 2004 Steinhavel to Himmelpfort.

10.6° C Overcast and cold start 15° C. Misty to start off with, then the sun burnt through, but clouds built up later and became windy too. Early away again at 7.15 a.m. Mist was
Schwedtsee - Wikimedia photo by Christopher Voitus

covering the lake as we ran into Fürstenberg, following Rosy down to the lock. Above the lock a very realistic look dragon was moored - it even had an articulated tail! An infatable overtook us and went into the lock first. A lady keeper worked the lock for us, pressing the buttons to empty the chamber and we dropped down 1.7m. It was ten past eight as we went into the Baalensee. There was only a slight mist just above the surface of the water on the little lake, but when we went through the narrows into the larger Schwedtsee it was obvious that unless we waited until the sun burned the mist away there would be no photos of the monument at
Stolpsee - Wikimedia photo by Tiberius 123
Ravenbrück on its shore today. A Locaboat hireboat came up off the Havel and went into the hirebase on the bank of the lake opposite the site of the concentration camp. Bill gave up waiting for a photo opportunity and we winded and went into the short section of the Havel which lead into the Stolpsee, a much larger lake and the beginning of another series of lakes leading to a dead end at Lychen. I made tea and by 9 a.m. the sun was out and the last traces of mist had gone. A medium sized, wedge-shaped speedboat cruiser called Lea raced us for the turning off the lake at Himmelpfort. He lost as we were well in front anway, so he stood no chance. I turned
Himmelpfort lock - Wikimedia photo by Botaurus
the green bar for the automatic lock as I slung a rope around one of the cabin-high wooden stumps. It took ages for the lock to empty (we’re going uphill again) considering that it was only 1.2m deep. In the meantime a young lady with a clipboard came to ask questions. Unforunately she didn’t speak any English and so I attempted to fill in her questionaire for her by reading her list of questions and she ticked off what were probably the usual answers! She was from the local tourist office and her boss was doing the same with the boats arriving above the lock. Mike gave up and left me answering the questionaire and went to take a rope off Bill to moor Rosy alongside us. The couple on the cruiser looked very miserable, it couldn’t have
 
The beautiful winding Woblitz - Wikimedia photo by Tobias 1986
been just because they weren’t first in the queue for the lock. Two small cruisers eventually emerged from the lock and we went up side by side with Rosy and the cruiser behind us. The lake above was another shorter one, called Haussee. I swept the minute tree seeds and dead flies off the roof that we’d collected overnight. The next section of linking narrow channel was called the Woblitz and was one of the most prettiest we’d found in all the Germany lakes. It’s narrow and very winding and runs through the forest. A trip boat from Lychen stopped on the far side of a 180° bend to let us through first, we both needed all the 
Grosse Lychensee - Wikimedia photo by Dietzel
width of the channel to get around the long sweeping bend. The Woblitz lead into another large lake, the Großer Lychensee, with three islands in the middle and two big bays on our right. We went to the right (south) of the largest island, while Bill went to the left (north side). As we went past the island we could see a house on the island facing us almost hidden by trees. Its outbuildings were falling down and I thought the property looked derelict but then I saw a man on the far side of the island. We went through a short narrow channel under two bridges and into the Stadtsee, a small peardrop shaped lake which is the last navigable lake in the chain. We stooged around,
Lychen - Wikimedia photo by Doris Antony
noting that there was a mooring on the north bank at Lychen, 26m long - its first 11m was set aside for paddle boats and the rest of the space (15m) was for cruisers to moor bows or stern ends to the wooden landing. No good for us - but at least they have now made provision for boats to moor there. We wondered if it was free of charge there. Rosy went through the bridges leading to the big lake and we paused to let the tripper through on its way back to its mooring in Lychen. We went back down the Großer Lychensee, passing to
Cistercian cloister ruins at Himmelpfort
Wikimedia photo by Botaurus
the north of the big island and spotted a man sitting under the trees - so the house must be inhabited. We followed Rosy back down the Woblitz, which was peaceful and quiet, after the masses that were out cruising in the region the day before, a sunny Sunday, we saw only  a couple of cruisers, one sailboat and a couple of paddlers moving. We passed a large cruiser with a very distinctive striped awning around its top deck, called Heruler from Berlin, we remembered seeing it when we were in the vicinity of Berlin last time we were here. Then we passed another tripper, this one was called Havelstromer. Had some lunch on the way back to the lock at Himmelpfort. A couple of small boats were going down as we arrived at the lock, then a few more came uphill. As the cruisers exited the lock the signboard came up with a message we hadn’t seen before and the lock gates closed. Translated the sign - a working boat had requested the lock, in
Cloister brewery - Wikimedia photo by Benutzer Exxu
other words a tripper had overidden the automatic lock. We chatted to the man who had been doing the survey and he confirmed it was waiting for a trip boat. The lock didn’t empty but re-opened about twenty minutes later when Havelstomer reappeared. It went down the lock and we had to wait for the lock to refill before we could go down. We tied up at 2.30 p.m. below the lock at Himmelpfort, with our stern end on the very end stump of the lock waiting area (there were more stumps but they had no bank access) and Bill gave us a hand to unload the moped using a plank. Mike went to collect the car from Voßwinkel. The trip boats were having a good day, going up and down the lock all afternoon. I gave Mike a hand to get the bike back on board. The pay mooring on the opposite bank was now all automatic, coins in the slots for water and electricity - and an overnight mooring permit was from a parking ticket machine! Chicken and mushroom curry for dinner. After dinner we went for a walk round the old town of Himmelpfort - “Heaven’s Gate”. The old monastry looked derelict except for a display of paintings in the end windows. I was convinced that it was still a working monastery when we were there last and that there were typical products of the monastery’s herb garden (still in existence opposite the old kloster, but now full of flowers) such as honey, mead, perfume and such like, looking at the overgrown ruins I must have been thinking of somewhere else. 


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